Saturday 17 February 2018

A Literary Weekend in Dublin

Last week was mid term break for Scottish schools – days to fill, in February, when the weather tends
not to be kind. What to do? We decided on a short trip to Dublin, Ireland, famous for both its warm hospitality (or craic) and excellent pint of Guinness, as well as for producing wonderful writers.

The Old Library


Trinity College,
Long Room
We began by exploring the popular tourist hotspots of Dublin Castle and Kilmainham Gaol, both steeped in Irish political and social history and well worth a visit. But I’d also made it my mission to learn more of Dublin’s great literary tradition, starting at its most famous seat of learning, TrinityCollege. With an outstanding set of writing alumni that includes Jonathan Swift (Gulliver’s Travels), Oscar Wilde (The Importance of Being Earnest) and Bram Stoker (Dracula), Trinity College is home to the Old Library
Trinity College, Old Library
with its majestic Long Room, containing two tiers of oak bookcases which hold over 200,000 books. It was magnificent on such a jaw-dropping scale that I had to remind myself it was real and not some Disney mock-up or made for a scene of Harry Potter!

 The Book of Kells


But my key reason for visiting Trinity College was to see its main treasure, something I’d wished to view for a long time - the artistically inscribed Book of Kells. Dating from around AD 800, the Book of Kells is believed to have been completed by monks from the island of Iona in Scotland. The precision of the scribes as they recorded the four Gospels of the Bible shows their immense skill and dedication to their work. Following line after line of immaculate Latin script, I couldn’t help but reflect that as I type more and write less, my handwriting has deteriorated to a lazy scrawl. It’s time to up my game and start practicing with the calligraphy set my sons gave me for Christmas. Seeing the Book of Kells was more than worth the wait.

 Dublin Writers Museum

 
Dublin Writers Museum
Portrait Gallery
From there, it was on to the Dublin Writers Museum, situated in an 18th century townhouse refurbished by the Jameson family, of Irish whiskey fame, which houses a wealth of artefacts, such as letters and first editions, celebrating the lives and works of Irish writers, including four Nobel laureates, over the past three hundred years. Visiting room after room filled with memorabilia from the likes of Swift and Wilde, Yeats and Joyce, was both awe-inspiring and, as a writer, more than a little daunting. If you plan on visiting the Writers Museum make sure to take a trip upstairs to the stunning Writers Portrait Gallery, found in the ornate former drawing room with views across Parnell Square.

Walking with Famous Irish Writers


Oscar Wilde Sculpture
Dublin is a city that encourages walking and has even put together a writing trail which includes a visit to Oscar Wilde’s House, the Oscar Wilde Memorial Sculptures in the gardens opposite his childhood home off Merrion Square, as well as the James Joyce Centre and more. My good friend and writer, Rachelle Atalla, also recommended I visit Sweny’s Pharmacy, an oldie-world former pharmacy that sells second hand books and appears in Joyce’s Ulysses and where volunteers read from his work. When we visited, Ulysses was being read in French, and given my knowledge of French has gone much the same way as my handwriting, we didn’t linger long, but it was lovely to imagine we’d walked in Joyce’s footsteps, if only for a little while.
 
Sweny's Pharmacy
mentioned in Ulysses

Contemporary Female Irish Writers

 In preparation for my trip to Dublin and also since I've returned, I've been reading contemporary female Irish fiction writers. I have long been a fan of both Marian Keyes (my review of her latest release, The Break) and Cecelia Ahern (one of my Christmas reads was The Gift), but I was also lucky enough, last year, to hear the fabulous short fiction writer, Claire Keegan, give a reading at Aberdeen University (my review of Foster). Next on my to-be-read pile was The Hollow Heart by Adrienne Vaughan, editor of the Romantic Novelists’ Association magazine and author of the Heartfelt series. Vaughan’s latest The Summer at the Seahorse Hotel is out now.
Lastly, my current bedtime read is The Good Mother by Sinead Moriarty, recommended for those visiting Dublin, over on the Trip Fiction website. Ireland’s literary tradition is most definitely alive and well.

If you’re unable to sample the delights of Ireland for yourself then why not try the next best thing and read some of its brilliant fiction. I'd love if you'd join in the craic by sharing your favourites below …

Happy reading,
Rae


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24 comments:

  1. Sounds like you had a wonderful break Rae. You must have returned very inspired.

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    1. Visiting a city so proud of its writing heritage was a wonderful boost to the spirits. : )

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  2. Sounds great, Rae. I loved Dublin on my brief visit in 2016 and now I want to go back!

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    1. Hello, Gill. We arrived Friday lunchtime and left first thing on Monday but were still able to cram so much in. It's great to have an excuse to revisit somewhere so lovely.

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  3. I'm a great fan of Irish best-selling Colette Caddle. You can find her books on https://www.amazon.co.uk/Colette-Caddle/e/B001HPG0WO
    Thanks or a really interesting post, Rae.

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    1. Hello and thanks for the recommendation. Off to Amazon to look at Colette's work. I suspect my TBR pile is about to become higher! : )

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    2. I've not heard of Colette Caddle either .... one to add to the list. Thanks for the recommendation, Marilyn.

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  4. What a fantastic break, Rae! We only had a short time in Dublin a few years ago (from a ship) and didn't see half of this so I need to go back some time. Thanks for sharing those great photos.

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  5. Molly Keane (also MJ Farrell) is one of my favourites. Saw Lady Windermere's Fan in London, too, last week. Still brilliant. anne stenhouse

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    1. Hello Anne, thanks for dropping by and recommending Molly Keane, who I think might be a hit with my book group. Ashamed to admit I've never seen Lady Windermere's Fan - one to add to my bucket list.

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  6. Thanks for your post, Rae, and the photos. My mother's family is from Dublin. It's a lovely city. My favourite Irish writer is Colm Toibin. I also love Emma Donoghue, Christine Dwyer Hickey, and Maeve Binchy.

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    1. Hello Helena, how lovely to have such a great excuse to visit Dublin! I also enjoy Colm Toibin's work and used to love escaping with a Maeve Binchy novel. Room by Emma Donoghue has been on my TBR list for too long, you've given me a nudge to bring it nearer the top - thanks.

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    2. Oh yes, the wonderful Maeve who wrote multiple viewpoints - even the dog ...... publishers are still looking for the next Maeve Binchy. Anyone???

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  7. This is a great post, full of lots of information. I have never been to Dublin. Another place to go on my bucket list. :)

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    1. I hope you get to visit soon, Victoria. It's such an inspiring city with pretty architecture and lots of great eateries. Perfect for a short break.

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  8. I'd written a comment the other day and must have forgotten to publish it! Sounds wonderful, Rae - we only managed a day visit to Dublin a few years ago so need to go back. Thanks for sharing the lovely photos.

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  9. Well, my goodness .... I've always thought I rather fancied visiting Dublin and should for so many literary reasons (plus the fact I have Irish friends!) but now I don't think I need to having read this most excellent blogpost .... it was like being there. Pass me the Guinness someone!

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    1. Oh the Guinness was lovely too, Linda and the Guinness Storehouse an experience all on its own!

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  10. Victoria ... there are flights from Exeter you know .... we could go - and you already know we are good room buddies.... :)

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  11. Ah Rae! I am hugely honoured to be even mentioned in this wonderful report of your glorious time in 'the ole home town'. So delighted you enjoyed yourself, I went to school very close to Kilmainham Goal, so you were in my neck of the woods alright. Steeped in history with a charm all its own, Dublin is uniquely delightful. Humbled also to be mentioned with two of my contemporary faves, Marian Keyes and Cecelia Ahearn - and my hero, Oscar Wilde. Guess where I was while you were in Dublin ... Scotland! We Celts can't get enough of the wonderful, inspirational landscapes we're lucky to call home. X

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    1. You're so very welcome, Adrienne. Readers are certainly spoilt for choice when choosing wonderful Irish fiction. Dublin was a city I'd hoped to visit for such a long time that there was a part of me that feared I might be a teeny bit disappointed. I needn't have worried - it was twice as fabulous as I'd imagined, and that natural way of story-telling was so evident. There was the stranger who took the time to stop in the street and share with us his childhood memories of Burdock's fish and chips, to the taxi driver who offered a running commentary on the rules of Gaelic football - I filled a notebook with anecdotes! I hope you enjoyed Scotland, half as much as we enjoyed our time in Dublin. x

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  12. What a great post, very inspiring, I always wanted to visit Dublin and now I'll definitely have to! As you know, I'm a big Maeve Binchy fan. x

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    1. Thanks for reading, Sareen. I hope you make it to Dublin one day. There's lots for the family to do too. Even my teens were blown away with the beauty of the Old Library and enjoyed a bit of author spotting (those they'd studied in school) at the Writers' Museum. Happy days : )

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